<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" ><generator uri="https://jekyllrb.com/" version="3.9.3">Jekyll</generator><link href="http://cyborghobbit.com/feed.xml" rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" /><link href="http://cyborghobbit.com/" rel="alternate" type="text/html" /><updated>2023-11-29T17:13:42+00:00</updated><id>http://cyborghobbit.com/feed.xml</id><title type="html">Cyborg Hobbit’s blog</title><subtitle>Welcome to my blog</subtitle><author><name>Cyborg Hobbit</name></author><entry><title type="html">Stopping Microsoft PowerToys UAC Prompts</title><link href="http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2023/02/09/powertoys-uac-promps" rel="alternate" type="text/html" title="Stopping Microsoft PowerToys UAC Prompts" /><published>2023-02-09T00:00:00+00:00</published><updated>2023-02-09T00:00:00+00:00</updated><id>http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2023/02/09/powertoys-uac-promps</id><content type="html" xml:base="http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2023/02/09/powertoys-uac-promps">&lt;p&gt;I recently switched to logging in with a non-admin account on my Windows work computer for increased security. Frustratingly, Microsoft PowerToys continued to cause a UAC (User Account Control) dialog to pop up on Windows login asking “Do you want to allow this app to make changes to your device?” and requiring that I enter my admin account username. This frustration was compounded when working remotely, as my admin account can’t authenticate with the domain until my VPN client has been connected, meaning I’d need to click NO on the UAC prompt and remember to launch PowerToys alter after connecting the VPN.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Web searches showed two year old bugs where disabling PowerToys’ auto-start feature (and then re-enabling it) fixed this and stopped the UAC prompt. But I learned that even with the setting disabled, PowerToys was launching on start and showing the UAC prompt.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Eventually it dawned on me to delete %AppData%\Local\Microsoft\PowerToys as I suspected some old setting existed there that was overriding new functionality or bug fixes. And sure enough, after doing so, I’m now able to launch PowerToys (on start or manually) without any UAC prompts.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;I’m sharing here in case anyone else is stumped like I was.&lt;/p&gt;</content><author><name>Cyborg Hobbit</name></author><category term="technology" /><category term="software" /><summary type="html">I recently switched to logging in with a non-admin account on my Windows work computer for increased security. Frustratingly, Microsoft PowerToys continued to cause a UAC (User Account Control) dialog to pop up on Windows login asking “Do you want to allow this app to make changes to your device?” and requiring that I enter my admin account username. This frustration was compounded when working remotely, as my admin account can’t authenticate with the domain until my VPN client has been connected, meaning I’d need to click NO on the UAC prompt and remember to launch PowerToys alter after connecting the VPN.</summary></entry><entry><title type="html">Wires in Govee LED Strip Lights are 24 AWG</title><link href="http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2023/02/09/wires-in-govee-smart-led-strip-lights-are-24-awg" rel="alternate" type="text/html" title="Wires in Govee LED Strip Lights are 24 AWG" /><published>2023-02-09T00:00:00+00:00</published><updated>2023-02-09T00:00:00+00:00</updated><id>http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2023/02/09/wires-in-govee-smart-led-strip-lights-are-24-awg</id><content type="html" xml:base="http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2023/02/09/wires-in-govee-smart-led-strip-lights-are-24-awg">&lt;p&gt;I cut the remote-only controller off of a Govee LED strip light set, and spliced the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth/Remote controller from a newer Govee set on to the existring strips. Since the existing strips are instaled in a room and can’t be moved to a work area, I didn’t want to use solder to connect them. To use butt splice connector I needed to know the guage of the wire, but I couldn’t remember if I used the 24 or 26 guage (AWG) spot on my wire stripping tool. I used a digital caliper to determine that the four wires inside the cable are 24 AWG each.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;As usual, I’m sharing this here in case it helps a search engine traveler down the road.&lt;/p&gt;</content><author><name>Cyborg Hobbit</name></author><category term="technology" /><category term="electronics" /><summary type="html">I cut the remote-only controller off of a Govee LED strip light set, and spliced the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth/Remote controller from a newer Govee set on to the existring strips. Since the existing strips are instaled in a room and can’t be moved to a work area, I didn’t want to use solder to connect them. To use butt splice connector I needed to know the guage of the wire, but I couldn’t remember if I used the 24 or 26 guage (AWG) spot on my wire stripping tool. I used a digital caliper to determine that the four wires inside the cable are 24 AWG each.</summary></entry><entry><title type="html">CyborgHobbit Launches Site</title><link href="http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2018/05/16/cyborghobbit-first-post" rel="alternate" type="text/html" title="CyborgHobbit Launches Site" /><published>2018-05-16T00:00:00+00:00</published><updated>2018-05-16T00:00:00+00:00</updated><id>http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2018/05/16/cyborghobbit-first-post</id><content type="html" xml:base="http://cyborghobbit.com/blog/2018/05/16/cyborghobbit-first-post">&lt;p&gt;After experimenting with hosting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://ghost.org&quot;&gt;Ghost&lt;/a&gt; blog on a RaspberryPi in my house, I’ve decided to give GitHub Pages a try. The neat thing about it, it’s powered by &lt;a href=&quot;http://jekyllrb.com&quot;&gt;Jekyll&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;</content><author><name>Cyborg Hobbit</name></author><category term="technology" /><category term="updates" /><summary type="html">After experimenting with hosting a Ghost blog on a RaspberryPi in my house, I’ve decided to give GitHub Pages a try. The neat thing about it, it’s powered by Jekyll.</summary></entry></feed>